In September, a ‘saltier season,’ oysters in the River are full-bodied; crisp; exuberantly, unapologetically briny. Slowly the sunlight lowers, wind picks up, and leaves redden, as colder, glacial days near. But beneath the surface, the vibrant webs of life pulse on a little longer. For oysters, still far from the upcoming winter, this fleeting pocket between seasons—at the outer edge of summer but not yet autumn—is like a slack-tide. For us (i.e. oyster growers, purveyors, sommeliers, consumers), it’s a salty, savory, show-us-what-you’ve-got summer finale.
It takes just a few minutes by boat for Pleasant Cove Oysters founder and lead farmer Clay Gilbert to reach Pleasant Cove, his growing site, from his home across the river in South Bristol. The team is tiny, close: Clay, Jane (his wife), and crew Holden, plus current partner Eric Peters of Norumbega Oyster Inc. At the mouth of Pleasant Cove, the farm’s lease site is both tucked away—a world apart—and exposed to the heaving tides of the estuary, sweeping nutrients through the farm. Growing with suspended surface gear, Clay and the small crew hone in on a deep-cupped, hardy-shelled, caramel-tinted oyster. A Pleasant Cove is recognizable for its hue, consistent gibbous-like shape, and occasional subtle fluting on the shells (the influence of fast-flowing waters). At its interior, the meat is firm, delicate, and full. Closer to the ocean, colder waters mould a tough & pearly shell, resilient to seasonal shifts and clean to shuck.
Founded in 2020 by Clay & another partner, the farm draws on decades (for Clay, over 30 years as a lobsterman) of hands-on experience on the water. As the only sea farm in their stretch of the river, Clay describes the scenes as peaceful, almost unbearably beautiful. "You’ve got to come see for yourself," he said when asked to describe the surroundings. Salt-breezes, craggy shores, crystal to verdant waters (seasonal). Osprey, seaweeds, fish feasting or rippling the water’s surface as they dart out of reach of predators.
"We took a chance here," explained Clay. How would oysters grown in Pleasant Cove taste? How would they look? How might they grow? As one of the farther farms down the river (i.e. more ocean-like conditions), how would the younger oysters fare? Could they thrive? Enthused by the possibilities and bolstered by research & conversation with fellow aquaculturists, the farm founders did take a risk. Lucky us, oyster-lovers, to share in the reward. Especially now, in September—Pearls of this salty season.
Pleasant Cove was our September Oyster of the Month. See what's featured now: Shop the Oyster of the Month
